Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: Tall-n-thin on March 28, 2014, 14:43:01
-
Afternoon all,
Having ridden around for the last month sounding like I've got a passenger with two coconut shells, making comedy 'clip-clop' noises as I go along, I've finally given in and bought a new chain and sprocket set (DID one from Busters on fleabay).
It doesn't look like too difficult a job (they never do, do they?), I have paddock stands and a chain splitter/rivetter tool.
Does anyone have any tips, or are there any situations to look out for that one might miss?
I'm attempting it over the weekend, so I'll have Sunday available to fix whatever I bugger-up on Saturday.
Anyway.........what could possibly go wrong.......
Cheers,
Steve.
-
Apart from locking back wheel with a bit of wood and not leaving in gear also check bearing in rear sprocket, I didn't and was driving around with just as noisy a bike but did not hear it as I always wore ear plugs. Once that was changed as well all was good. I have no experience with chain riveting I used an endless chain.
-
Thanks putbinoot, didn't think of doing that. Makes sense whilst I've got the wheel off.
Ta.
-
Put a piece of wood through the rear wheel so to act as a stop when undoing the front sprocket nut. Undo the nut while you still have the old chain on. Undo the axle and slide the rear wheel forward a bit to get the front sprocket off, clean the area well and put the new front sprocket on. Then use the wood trick with the old chain to tighten the front sprocket nut again, 100Nm is what I do mine at. After this you split the old chain, remove the rear wheel, fit the new sprocket (check the carrier bearing and wheel bearings while you're at it), back wheel back on and then fit the new chain. The best advice for riveting the new chain is to take your time with it, it's easy to rivet it too much and then you end up with it being tight. I usually press the rivet link together slowly, bit by bit, measuring the distance that the plates are apart until it's the same as the other links. Then measure the thickness of the rivet before you flare it. Flare it a bit then measure it again, you want the flared bit to be about 0.5mm larger than what the rivet was before you flared it. Get both rivets about the same. The amount that the rivet needs to be flared should be specified by the manufacturer, but it's not always easy getting the right info for the chain you bought so it's a 'feels right' kind of thing for me.
It's an easy job, just take your time with the riveting.
-
Good info - thanks Juvecu!
-
Good points. In addition it's good practice to use a torque wrench to tighten all the nuts, bolts and wheel spindle when tightening them up.
-
Thank you Hookie.
Yes I always use a torque wrench. Especially with 'important' nuts/bolts like the wheel spindle. Too many years of Ford Escort ownership with snapped and sheared nuts and bolts taught me that.
Just a little tighter......just a bit more.....ggggnnnnnn......SNAP! Arse.
Cheers,
Steve.
-
Thank you to all who replied here.
I changed the chain and sprockets at the weekend, and following all your suggestions and advice it all went worryingly well! The clutch push rod thingy did fall apart on me, but it was a good excuse to re-grease and adjust it.
The most difficult part was riveting the new chain. Not technically, just the brute force required to splay the rivets. Mind you, the rivet tool was an ebay cheapie special. I'm sure there's a phrase about workmen, tools and blame, but I just can't remember it right now.....
Having ridden it for a week, both wheels are still attached and it's weird not being accompanied by an almighty clunking sound.
Thanks again chaps!
Cheers,
Steve.
-
Good stuff Steve! It's nice when it all goes to plan! :thumb: