Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: MartinW on November 10, 2013, 17:50:44
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I've got too many battery connections now and it's not easy to get the bolts too tighten on the terminals.
So, longer bolt or a secondary bus-bar type arrangement for the additional connections? What's the right way to go, and if it's the latter (which I think it should be) where's a good place to get something useful?
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http://www.versatilemarine.co.uk/index.html (http://www.versatilemarine.co.uk/index.html)
Give the above firm a call and ask for Abby, and ask for one of these.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Sea-System ... ea+systems (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Ground/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1384108057&sr=1-3&keywords=blue+sea+systems)
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I'm about to fit one of these with a relay. Someone who really knows what they are doing will be along soon!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151124154036?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
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Thanks both - I was hoping to avoid putting in an aux-box, but I know you are both right. Will have to go and get on with it.
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Some good kit here, which might have a solution to what you need:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_ ... strom.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/VStrom/vstrom.html)
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Got all my stuff from http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... mepage.php (http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php) this was the aux fusebox I used http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... HAL106.jpg (http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/fuses/photo/FHAL106.jpg) via a relay .
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Heres a cheaper alternative to the bluesea box...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380485287092? ... 1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380485287092?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
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Nice one Gassoon - I like that one.
:)
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I have a 6 way BlueSea with the Negative bus. If I had to do it again I'd probably buy something that just has an individually fused positive bus and screw the negatives together with a bolt through some ring terminals. Space is at a premium under my seat.
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that's exactly what I do. Ring connectors on each earth and a bolt through them. Takes up hardly any room, makes a great connection and saves £20 on the fuse box :grin:
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I was planning to do the ring connector and bolt fix for the grounds, but that's a bit dodgy for the 12V feeds. I reckon I will go with Mr Gassoon's suggestion.
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Just to clarify - I only do it for the earths. I use a proper fusebox with a positive bus for the 12v feeds.
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Pics would help the electrically challenged like me...
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OK, ordered the item Gassoon pointed out. Thanks for all the inputs.
Will do a formal review and photo's when it arrives.
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Got the new aux fuse box today. It's a bit big! Does fit under the seat and will be pretty future proof when it's fitted though. I'll get some photo's sorted when I fit it.
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Good luck fitting & thanks in advance. I need to sort out my electrics soon so look forward to see how you get on :thumb:
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Hi mate,
Did you fit the box? Wanting to do the same thing but don't know how it works haha,
Please could some explain exactly what this box does and how to fit it to bike, has anyone got pics too please cos I'm a bit electrically challenged :shy:
Any help greatly welcomed!!!
Cheers
Josh
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I have limited knowledge too Josh, but we can get together and bodge it together if you fancy?
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Here is one example of an under seat installation. The earth connection goes from the battery - to the fuse block. The live connection goes from the battery + to a 30A inline fuse on to a relay and then to the live side of the fuse block. The blue trigger wire in the diagram is the small white wire in the picture that goes to a connector which is attached to the brown wire in the sheath that runs by the left side of the under seat tray. Red wires are live and black wires are earth. The small red and black wires from the battery go to a connector which is plugged into a battery tender to keep the battery properly charged when the snow takes over my world for up to four months.
(http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1292/1374496223_b0f1e05385_o.jpg)
A typical schematic is shown below.
(http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/_img/relay/relay-diagram-final.jpg)
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Josh - I haven't fitted it yet, but will put up some detailed instructions and photo's when I do.
As for connections, Greywolf has already given some great details. The block I have bought has two common positive rails though, each of 6 connections, so one can then be direct to the battery (So Alarms, Optimisers etc) and one can be relay switched for utilities (Heated Grips, GPS etc). The grounds are common.
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The tray under the seat is just one place the fuse block can be placed. On my Wee, adding electrical accessories wound up with most of them at the front, so I moved the fuse block to the front when I replaced the 6 connection Blue Seas fuse block with a physically smaller Eastern Beaver PC8.
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6163/6241578606_49a853f930_o.jpg)
On the Glee that had little front end electrical additions, the best and maybe only place for the Rostra electronic cruise control servo required displacing the tool kit and left room for the PC8 in back. Positive and negative buses on the battery also added connectivity.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8256/8637887757_c20d886ea8_h.jpg)
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Wow!!
Thanks very much for the help, this is now deffinatley on my to do list, really clarified in my mind what I need to do.
Without being too thick, can anyone recommend a relay for this??
Once again many thanks
Josh
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http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/12v-40a-dc-sp ... elay-n02aw (http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/12v-40a-dc-spno-automotive-relay-n02aw)
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Finally finished wiring the Aux Fuse Box in. The one I purchased is quite big, which meant it took me a bit longer to do. However, it also means it has been future-proofed.
I had to do something as my battery had too many separate wires on it, and I couldn't get the screws to go through into the threaded section of the terminal. This is the horrific scene I had before the fuse box went in. It didn't just need the electrics tidying up, it needed all the muck removing as well.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3707/12154941986_d488635bb1.jpg)
I really needed to fix the relay to something too as the sticky pad it came with is past its use by date.
I ended up buying this fuse box (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-way-fusebox-with-twin-positive-busbars-and-neg-bus-/380485287092) as I liked the idea of two separate positive rails. One for a straight to the battery connection and one for a switched live for when the ignition is on. The problem is, it's quite big!
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3726/12154946696_346bb8f571.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5491/12154529773_bb708bc29d.jpg)
This is where the problems started. Although it fitted in the tray under the seat, there was not really any room for the cables to go in and out. I started to drill some holes through for the cables, but that really didn't work, expecially with the thicker cables coming direct from the battery. I ended up cutting down the sides of the tray until they were the same height as the connectors on the fuse box. It wasn't hard to do, just using a stanley knife, but it didn't feel right doing it. However, once done it's a good fit.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7302/12154940106_f81214ca0f.jpg)
Relay bolted down properly too.
Next, how to wire it. Now I am not too confident on mechanics, but not worried by electrics. So this is how I designed and connected the electrons.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7164/13929474832_6c5b13bcee.jpg)
With this configuration, the odd numbered connections (L1, L3, L5, L7, L9 and L11) all work when the ignition is on and the even numbered connections (L2, L4, L6, L8, L10 and L12) are all live all the time.
So wired up and lid on, with fuses fitted.
L1 = Heated Grips
L5 = Sat Nav
L2 = Optimiser
L10 = Alarm
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2825/12154521803_f44b52b5cc.jpg)
The alarm has been disabled at the moment by not putting a fuse in FUSE10, but the fuse can be put in again if needed and the alarm's back on.
The other spaces will be used for a 12V socket and a PD Oiler, which are still to fit.
Now the battery only has the two wires that run the rest of the bike and the two wires to the Fuse Box.
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Asda beans! Quality! Top install. Tidies it up nicely. Result!
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nice. just one thing can you put the relay the right way up (OK its me. it annoys me sorry)
but good job and pictures too.
j
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That little sign under the battery in the diagram can be confusing. One possible relay trigger wire can be the orange/green power wire to the rear brake light switch. If you use the actual brake light wire, the fuse block will only be on when the brakes are on.
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Good Point Greywolf.
To avoid confusion, I have changed the picture to only show the number plate light connection.
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I've got too many battery connections now and it's not easy to get the bolts too tighten on the terminals.
If you want simple, two 6mm terminals and 100mm thick flex and an M6 locknut and bolt and a roll of tape.