Author Topic: F1 light. (Read 14709 times)

bobbymc · « **on:** September 26, 2017, 12:02:12 »

I have an 09 reg 650 DL.
Where the clock is, it's showing F1.
The red light in the center clock is flashing and the beast won't start.
I think I have read about this situation before on here.
Has anyone got any standard clues on how to proceed to get the bike up and started.
It has just come back from Ireland, 1600 miles, doing the northern half of the Wild Atlantic way and it preformed faultlessly......Bob

Moo · « **Reply #1 on:** September 26, 2017, 12:22:30 »

It means there a fault and the fault code will need to be read.

If you look up on the forum about putting the bike in dealer mode, which isn't hard it will tell you the error code which lets you know why it won't start.

It involves finding the white dealer plug, which just has a blank cap on it and bridging two of the wires (can't remember the colours, white/black and yellow/black spring to mind)

greywolf · « **Reply #2 on:** September 26, 2017, 12:54:34 »

See http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7061.0.html
The code needs to be active to read it. If it only comes up occasionally, you can ride the bike in dealer mode or carry a spare key to get under the seat. It sounds like yours is always present though so put the bike in dealer mode and turn on the ignition. Let us know what code you get.

Gassoon · « **Reply #3 on:** September 26, 2017, 14:30:50 »

hello bobbymc! As the previous blokes said, and good luck. We'll move this to the more appropriate section (V-Strom specific discussion or http://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?board=58.0 ) at some point though, this bit is for new introductions

tallpaul · « **Reply #4 on:** September 26, 2017, 21:06:53 »

Is this going to be the kill switch of doom...? Or are the symptoms different for that classic malady?

greywolf · « **Reply #5 on:** September 26, 2017, 22:13:57 »

I am pretty good at remembering common problems yet I have no idea what the kill switch of doom refers to. We need to know the fault code before any more progress may be made. There are too many possibilities to guess at anything yet.

tallpaul · « **Reply #6 on:** September 26, 2017, 22:21:34 »

Kill switch of doom is not a fault at all, simply the kill switch has inadvertently been pressed and the bike exhibits all the hallmarks of being dead. Others have fallen foul of this common mistake in the past. Just a thought...

greywolf · « **Reply #7 on:** September 26, 2017, 22:49:03 »

The kill switch will create a CHEC, not an FI. The symptoms don't fit.

tallpaul · « **Reply #8 on:** September 27, 2017, 11:14:31 »

Fair enough, I couldn't remember and I have no strom to try it out on!

bobbymc · « **Reply #9 on:** October 02, 2017, 18:02:16 »

Thanks bloke's for your useful information. I have had a tinker with all the fuses and a few electrical blocks and found the dealer mode test block.
I can now start the bike and I'm on it tomorrow with a "U" shaped piece of with in with the spare ignition key......fingers crossed !

bobbymc · « **Reply #10 on:** October 03, 2017, 20:20:36 »

I had another pop at it tonight, after it wouldn't start on monday.....took battery out, took out and put back in all the fuses, connections to the "Brain" ECU and all the others under the seat within reach, and blow me the beast started....poss till it refuses again.
Any clues ?........Bob

greywolf · « **Reply #11 on:** October 03, 2017, 20:40:10 »

We are still waiting for a code. A pop often accompanies a bad connection at the end of a large battery cable. It's often a connection at the battery itself but it can be at either end of any of the large cables.

bobbymc · « **Reply #12 on:** October 05, 2017, 18:33:29 »

It starts and then it won't !....Will I get a code if when it's not starting on the button ?.....Bob

greywolf · « **Reply #13 on:** October 05, 2017, 19:22:20 »

You'll get a code whenever the ignition is on and the fault is active. If you turn off the ignition, the code will be stored but removed from display until active with the ignition on again. A dealer with the Suzuki SDS system will be able to read stored codes as will anyone with a HealTech Suzuki OBD reader but the code must be active for the dealer mode trick to work. Dealer mode will not display stored codes.

bobbymc · « **Reply #14 on:** October 07, 2017, 09:37:09 »

Morning all, I had the time to tinker with the bike, I turned the ignition on, all lit up but the "red" light started to flash and "F1" came up on the dash.
I bridged the terminals on the test plug and it came up with -C42.
What on earth is that ?
Though I must say if I turn the ignition switch on and off a couple of times it will usually allow me to start it.....help please !.......Bob

Gassoon · « **Reply #15 on:** October 07, 2017, 15:35:19 »

C42 indicates a problem with the ignition switch, in all probability. See HERE

Maybe a good clean of the ignition switch barrel might work? Maybe related to the connectors in the fairing?

See this discussion on VSRI, too http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,16268.msg170143.html#msg170143

greywolf · « **Reply #16 on:** October 07, 2017, 15:45:06 »

A C42 is about the Ignition Switch Signal (Anti-Theft). There is a precision resistor in the ignition switch that reduces the voltage in the connection from the ignition switch to the ECU to a reduced voltage range. If the voltage the ECU "sees" is outside of that range, the bike won't start and the ECU will cause a C42 to be displayed. Assuming the person trying to start the bike is not trying to hot wire it, the usual problem is oxidation and/or corrosion in the wiring from the ignition switch to the ECU. That poor connection can also create heat which can cause a connector to lose its springiness, making the connection even poorer.

Make sure the connections between the ignition switch and ECU are clean and tight and coat them with ACF-50 grease to fight corrosion and keep water out of the connections. The connections at the ignition switch wires and the large connector in the left side of the fairing are more likely to get water in them than the ECU connections but the ACF-50 is a good application for every connector on the bike.

bobbymc · « **Reply #17 on:** October 08, 2017, 12:27:25 »

Many thanks everyone from both sides of the Atlantic for the information.....looks like I have to spend some time tracing cables to and from the ignition switch and cleaning them up, I do have electronics cleaner and WD 40 so it must have been all the rain in Ireland that did it.......Bob

bobbymc · « **Reply #18 on:** October 12, 2017, 22:41:08 »

Well the upshot of it all is that I gave the ignition switch a medium blast of WD 40 straight down the keyhole and Hello presto it's been on the button ever since.....Famous last words !........Cheers all.

bobbymc · « **Reply #19 on:** November 06, 2017, 17:20:49 »

Following on from my thread and Greywolf's advice, I looked for the White connector from the ignition switch on the left hand side of the bike, I found one that went to the 25Amp fuse behind the battery, but I don't think it was the one. Does anyone know where the said connector is, I.e.(by the front cylinder head?/ rear cylinder head etc) so that I can give it some treatment !
Will the tank have to come off ?......Bob