Author Topic: 2012 Glee electrical issue (Read 10469 times)

UK_Vstrom650 · « **on:** February 01, 2017, 16:20:27 »

Following on from my recent posts of my breakdown http://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=12233.msg311624#msg311624 and here http://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=31209.msg311674#msg311674 thought I'd start a new thread relating to this...

In brief (to save clicking the links), travelling from Leeds to Newcastle (c.100miles @ 70mph speeds) my bike decided to cut out in a 50mph zone of the A1 motorway leaving me stranded in the inside lane. Engine just cut out & FI light started flashing.

Got recovered to the nearest Suzuki dealership, who had the bike overnight and say they checked out the reg/rec (fitted 3 different ones), stator (said they popped an old one back in), and checked the battery. Although battery volts were OK, thought the amps were low so diagnosed a likely battery issue. Fitted a new battery, cleared the error faults (fuel pump, MAP fuel absolute pressure and exhaust manifold) and the bike was working fine. They did say I have a lot of accessories on the bike and possibly too much for the system (although all have been on the bike for several years without issue). They said they hoped that would resolve the issue but couldn't guarantee. Charged 1hrs labour + battery.

Rode home last night at motorway speed avoiding the A1 due to roadworks with contraflow. Voltmeter showing 14.5 (only accessories on were satnav, LED bullet lights and dash cam) until I turned my heated grips on full when it dropped to 14.2v. About 10 miles from my house I turned my heated jacket on full (13.8v) and my LED spotlights (13.6 at 30mph in 4th gear, c.3,000rpm) rode for a mile of two with them on, which included a 50mph stretch, then turned everything off and volts went back to 14.5. Rode the rest of the way home, parked in the garage. Popped the optimate on the battery and left it overnight.

This morning the optimate was showing green across the board. Unplugged it, wheeled the bike out the went to start it to see the dash display dim and showing all the figures dimly lit (see below). After a while of leaving it like this, the display fully lit up and displayed properly, with the FI light flashing. It then faded as above before coming back on with the FI light flashing.

I've taken the battery off the bike and put it back on the optimate, with the intention of putting it back on when fully charged (without any accessories reattached) to see if it resolves. Then will leave it overnight and check it out tomorrow, before heading back to the dealership.

Anyone experienced anything similar before? Am mindful it was all fine before the stator recall although it could just be coincidence

(On the plus side, at least it died on my drive and not halfway between Newcastle and Leeds last night, or Leeds and Sheffield today which is where I was going...)

greywolf · « **Reply #1 on:** February 01, 2017, 16:31:07 »

We need to find the FI code that will pinpoint the problem. Use this procedure. http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,7061.0.html

You may need to ride the bike in dealer mode until the FI again is displayed or carry a spare key to get under the seat and put the bike in dealer mode. Without special equipment, a code will only display when the FI is showing and turning off the ignition will cancel any active code.

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 01, 2017, 16:37:17 »

Thanks GW. That's my next job once I get the battery back on the bike in the next hour or so. Of course there's a possibility the bike will 'work' when I plug the battery back in like it did yesterday and allowed me to ride home. Ticking time bomb...

Hondaman · « **Reply #3 on:** February 01, 2017, 17:12:55 »

Surely this is an electrical/connector type of issue?
It does sound a bit like M&S were stabbing in the dark a bit.

Get the tank off & have a poke around, check connectors & earths even the main fuse and connections at the starter solenoid, wire runs etc.

alibx11 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 01, 2017, 17:31:15 »

As Hondaman say check the cable runs and connections, have a look under the battery box where the main looms can rub and wear through.
But the cause of the Fi light with code could help, although a damaged wiring loom would stll show up as a faulty sensor if the power wasn't getting to it or causing a circuit break.

greywolf · « **Reply #5 on:** February 01, 2017, 18:57:08 »

The code will pinpoint the area of the problem. Rooting around without knowing which sensor has a problem would be a waste of time and energy. An intermittent problem is not going to be apparent from a simple look.

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 01, 2017, 19:06:40 »

Thanks all. Plonked the fully charged battery back in and the same as this morning faded clocks. No fuel pump priming etc. Am in the process of pulling off the airbox to see if anything obvious there, but as GW says unless it's obvious no chance of finding it. Still nothing better to do tonight given the mother-in-law is visiting...

As much as I like this bike, this is my first and probably my last Suzuki as it's the only bike I've ever had electric problems with.

greywolf · « **Reply #7 on:** February 01, 2017, 19:22:10 »

Every make and model has had problems. Blaming an entire manufacturers' line for a fault in one case is something I see often in forums but makes no sense. Is there a CHEC displayed on the panel by any chance? If you have no panel display, tighten the battery terminals and check the main fuse under the clear plastic cover in front of the battery. Check the voltage across the battery terminals with the ignition off. If it is under 12.5V on a just charged battery, the battery has failed.

Hugh Mungus · « **Reply #8 on:** February 01, 2017, 19:53:42 »

Yep. plenty of electrical issues on other makes.

It could be something silly like a bad earth connection as previously mentioned. In which case it would be difficult to predict which connector is at fault. I would go through each connector and give it a thorough clean - this will takes ages to do and it's something you can do yourself, if you ask a bike dealer to do it they will say "Oh good grief" and probably not do it properly and charge the Earth (pun intended) as most mechanics hate doing electrics. At least you can rule out bad connections if nothing else.

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 01, 2017, 20:06:12 »

I know, just frustration... I rely on the bike for commuting and work (was supposed to be in Sheffield an hour away for a meeting which I ended up missing) so annoying when it breaks down for electrical gremlins especially when all my previous bikes never had any electrical issues. Never mind the missus won't let me buy another bike anyway

No CHEC as far as I could see before taking the tank off, just pic below. This mornings photo when the display reappeared had no CHEC on it. Battery terminals are tight. Battery 12.64 across the terminals (had ignition on for about 15mins hoping FI would reappear). Fuse looked fine but swapped for spare. Dash no different.

Will go through connectors.

greywolf · « **Reply #10 on:** February 01, 2017, 20:54:35 »

The display is totally wonky. I suspect you have water, possibly with salt in it, invading an electronic component in the display or ECU areas.

Hondaman · « **Reply #11 on:** February 01, 2017, 22:06:51 »

Reading the codes will not pinpoint the problem if it is a random electrical problem with a multi connector or bad earth.
Most sensors, if they were to fail or throw a fault would not cause the engine to cut out except the ign pickup, maybe the cam sensor but they were not listed when the dealer read the codes.

I maybe way off the mark but my money is on random mischief with the electrics rather than a sensor playing up.
The clocks playing up may not be related but it is rather a coincidence.

Edit; the list of error codes are; fuel pump, MAP, fuel absolute pressure & exhaust manifold.
Is that right, what is fuel absolute pressure & exhaust manifold?
AFAIK there are no fuel pressure or exhaust sensors (other than 02) but stand to be corrected.

Sam · « **Reply #12 on:** February 01, 2017, 22:22:59 »

Could this be a problem with the wiring loom rubbing on the frame, as was reported on some early bikes?

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 01, 2017, 23:00:04 »

Well Hondaman, they're the faults I was told appeared (I wrote them down as they told me).

Having pulled the airbox off I had a good wiggle of all the connectors I could find. Also checked (as best I could in poor light) the wiring loom near the chaffing frame area but no joy. At the front connectors behind the radiator, I opened up the shrouds I installed and started opening the connectors- they were looking OK. I left the two connectors to the left disconnected and whilst moving to one of the others I disturbed something that made the clocks light up... wiggling around the 3 leads on the right directly influences the dash, and pulling on the wire near the kill switch eventually got the dash displaying correctly albeit briefly.

I need to check whether it definitely is the kill switch as the wire is cable tied to the three others and possibly wiggling that is disturbing them enough. I've cut the cable ties and am half way through disassembling the kill switch (just need to read up on getting the throttle cables off) then will have a look at the KS.

The only error codes that came on were C13, C17 and C21 (& cycled around them again), all of which relate to the airbox being removed.

And yes, salty water everywhere - my bike was crusted over with salt when I picked it up yesterday & it was a right downpour on my way home...

After my previous electrical issues traced to the connectors behind the radiator I opened every connector I could find and poured a capful of ACF50 into each end, then smeared ACF50 Corrosion Block all over the outside and back. Where I could I also put a shroud (old inner tube) over them to keep water out.

Hugh Mungus · « **Reply #14 on:** February 02, 2017, 05:42:59 »

Sounds like you're making progress

Hondaman · « **Reply #15 on:** February 02, 2017, 07:51:15 »

Good luck, it sounds like you are making a bit of headway.

Those connectors are going to give these bikes a bad name in years to come.
All mine were in good shape so the spray grease & foam above the rad did their job, I have now rerouted & elevated them behind the headstock and lathered them with waxoil but still using the foam to block the gap at the top of the rad.

It could have been sorted at the factory for pennies.....

UK_Vstrom650 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 02, 2017, 10:02:21 »

Had a tinker this morning before work. The dash was blank when switching the ignition on with just the neutral & ABS lights on.

I started with the kill switch but pulling the wires, including those around the headstock didn't 'fix' the dash display. I then started to disconnect the kill switch (thought I'd just replace) and the dash came back on. As the kill switch was disconnected it displayed CHEC. Pulling the other wires around the headstock and behind the radiator didn't alter the dash display.

I then started to give the wiring a gentle tug at the connectors to double check it is the kill switch, and all was fine until I gave a gentle tug upward on the loom-frame-rub location. Instantly the display went back to faded then came back on CHEC. Plugged the kill switch back in. Ignition on & display fine (same error codes as yesterday. Repeated frame-rub location test and dash off/on.

Looks like I may have found the problem... had to stop for work so further testing later.

Hondaman · « **Reply #17 on:** February 02, 2017, 10:58:55 »

I doubt reading the codes would find that.
Sometimes a poke around is required.

greywolf · « **Reply #18 on:** February 02, 2017, 12:44:24 »

The codes will show the problem sensors, making it easier to check the wiring to those sensors. That is all it takes in most cases. In this case though, other wiring in addition to the sensor wiring is involved. There are problems not involved with the FI display. Those problems require tracing.

vstroman · « **Reply #19 on:** February 02, 2017, 15:31:41 »

I suppose I should be checking the connectors too and spraying them with ACf50, I hate electrics but I suppose preventative maintainance would be the best course of action.
I haven't even tried removing the tank yet, the thought of those side panels with the velcro/clips attachments is putting me off, but I'd really like to check the air filter and check some of the electrical connections,
hope you get the problem sorted, sounds like the problem is were the loom touches the frame.