Author Topic: Headlight Failure (Read 9980 times)

bluepoolshark · « **on:** January 26, 2016, 22:50:18 »

I was wondering if you blokes could help. On my way home tonight both my main beam headlights stopped working, high beam and flash also don't work. Side lights are still on though. Other than a blown fuse any ideas what the problem could be?? Thanks in advance!

greywolf · « **Reply #1 on:** January 26, 2016, 23:45:15 »

If you have a 2005 or later model, the usual problem is the headlight cutout contacts in the start button switch. A connector in the left fairing or behind the radiator top shroud can also be the problem. Adding headlight relays prevents the problem. After the fact, the bad connection needs to be fixed first.

http://www.stromtrooper.com/information-vault/71046-headlight-problems.html
http://blacklabadventures.com/2012/02/19/start-switch-maintenance/

bluepoolshark · « **Reply #2 on:** January 27, 2016, 10:00:40 »

Thanks for the links, I have a 2008 wee. I haven't had any issues with the start button switch, guess I will have to start with the easy connector block and work my way up to the more difficult stuff if that doesn't solve it!

greywolf · « **Reply #3 on:** January 27, 2016, 15:15:51 »

The start button activates two switches. One does the starter motor and the other cuts off the headlight. By far, the headlight cutoff contacts are the most common cause of headlight loss. That the starter motor works is an entirely separate issue from the headlights.

bluepoolshark · « **Reply #4 on:** January 27, 2016, 15:58:55 »

Ahhhh, my electrical knowledge is somewhat limited at best!

Will use the blacklabaventures link and give mine some tlc at the weekend

awicks · « **Reply #5 on:** January 28, 2016, 22:16:04 »

On my '12 Glee I've had headlight issues recently. The garage tried to clean up the connector behind the radiator but without success so ended up replacing it with a waterproof one. That would be the first thing I would check.

Andy

greywolf · « **Reply #6 on:** January 28, 2016, 22:36:23 »

Those reporting in the poll listed 59 starter switch contact failures as opposed to 15 failures in connectors behind the radiator shroud so far. UK failures may have a higher incidence of connector failure due to riding on salted roads but all contacts and connections should be checked.

Stuzc · « **Reply #7 on:** February 01, 2016, 15:36:15 »

its a fun couple of hours fixing this one ;-)

bluepoolshark · « **Reply #8 on:** February 02, 2016, 09:38:55 »

It was the starter switch, had a fiddle with it and the lights came back, not had chance to fix properly yet as weather was terrible at weekend and I have no garage so hopefully the weather gods are kinder this week!

ProfG · « **Reply #9 on:** February 02, 2016, 09:56:45 »

I took the starter switch apart and cleaned the contacts but still the same problem. Guess I have to look at the connector contacts now.

Andyonbass · « **Reply #10 on:** February 02, 2016, 11:17:50 »

So is there a UK supplier of the equivalent EB relay kit? Or would a competent mechanic be able to knock one up? Getting some work done on my Glee at the weekend and would be nice to be able to obtain a kit and get it done while the tank is off.....

bigpie · « **Reply #11 on:** February 02, 2016, 12:40:54 »

I can make them to order but it takes me a a couple of weeks to get supplies and make up, I don't make them in batches like the fuseboxes, they don't sell so well. Search for my for sale thread if interested.

greywolf · « **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2016, 17:26:03 »

Cleaning the switch contacts isn't enough. See http://blacklabadventures.com/2012/02/19/start-switch-maintenance/

Heat can warp parts and recess or warp contacts. If fiddling with the start switch causes changes in the headlights, the start switch is still involved.

Anybody familiar with automotive electrical can hook up a pair of relays. Do an Internet search on headlight relay harness.

ecvaldas · « **Reply #13 on:** February 17, 2016, 14:12:29 »

I had this issue on my K2 the other day when I was coming back from Wales at night time and still had to make another 3h of riding... bloody nightmare... luckily, high beam started to work and I was able to come back home.

After taking the bike apart and spending good 6-8h hours diagnosing the fault I realised that two electrical plugs are glitching so I had to eliminate those. I would highly recommend sealing all electrical plugs on a bike but clean them first, or you end up in the situation like I was ....

p.s. took me 1 day to diagnose, 1 day to do soldering and I am no expert...

Cbx · « **Reply #14 on:** February 24, 2016, 17:36:12 »

I replaced an indicator bulb yesterday on my K2 1000, switched hazards on to check all 4 were working they flashed once then nothing tried indicator switch still nothing peered down the left side fairing and saw a bunch wires gave them a wiggle and indicators worked but headlight went off tried hazard switch and indicators stop working again until I wiggled the bunch of wires again then headlight came back on but no amount of wiggling gets the hazards working... is it a case of checking every connection in that block in the left fairing?

greywolf · « **Reply #15 on:** February 24, 2016, 18:36:26 »

You could try using some ACF50 on your connectors. It may work all by itself but poor connections often heat up and warp the connector contacts. Bad connections need to be fixed to work and some going bad means the others are suspect for future problems. The ACF50 treatment works better as a preventative than a cure for an already present ailment.

Cbx · « **Reply #16 on:** February 27, 2016, 18:53:51 »

It would appear I have the same problem as ecvaldas , one of the two plugs behind the left side fairing are malfunctioning and I'm guessing the one that powers headlight is the one that's getting quite hot. Is bypassing the plug a viable option , would new plugs be available? would the Eastern Beaver kit solve it .
The indicator / Hazard light problem was user error (wrong Bulbs)

ripsi · « **Reply #17 on:** February 29, 2016, 09:13:34 »

I had a similar (but different connector issue, under tank / airbox)

I thought the "Eastern Beaver" kit would sort the problem out, but as soon as you loose voltage for either mains or dips you will not trigger the relay which therefore means it will not work. What the kit will do is reduce the volt loss through the switchgear and wiring, hence higer voltage at the lamp, therefore more effective

Simon

Cbx · « **Reply #18 on:** February 29, 2016, 10:20:45 »

Cheers Simon , how did you cure yours ? Is a trip to the auto electrician called for :(

ripsi · « **Reply #19 on:** February 29, 2016, 13:50:14 »

Hate to say it but yes, but make sure you take it to a reputable spark with Vstrom strip down knowledge, I was charged 5 hours labour (even though it took us longer guv') so I ended up with a £300 bill. But its done now, and I havent bodged it .....

But given the time and the inclination it could be a DIY job. Covers off, tank off, radiator hinge forward, airbox off...... its a pig to get to the connectors at the front of the air-box, which is where I believe my issue was.

Good luck

Author Topic: Headlight Failure (Read 9980 times)

ProfG

ecvaldas